From 12-07-13 to 21-07-13 we spent a week discovering Lofoten. The original plan to do lots of climbing there was ditched as the weather forecasts promised masses of rain. So we saved probably 5-7 kg of luggage and set out to discover the peninsula. Below we will share some of the highlights. Please let us know if you have any questions, thoughts or additions to our story.
Svolvær - Ørsvåg- Kabelvåg
 |
| the Widerøe plane to Svolvær |
Getting to Svolvær turned out to be a little more tricky than we expected. Not only did we have to get up somewhat earlier that we are used to to catch the flight at 05:00 (!), also the approach to Svolvær (merely one small airstrip amidst the water..) in low cloud cover took two attempts and a 15 min pause circling the airspace waiting for a small clearing.
The rest of that day is not that noteworthy as our rhythm was off due to the early start and we got completely soaked through for the first time that week.
So much for hardshell trousers....
Oh, I do have to share the Husky that we ran into the next morning who quietly let himself be cuddled all over by us. Me want!
Ballstad
 |
| Ballstad - seen from Ballstadheia |
Day 2 was our lucky day.
Amazing where and how you end up with some help from very friendly people.
First was a busride to Leknes. Once there we decided Leknes was, apart from a
shopping mall, not exactly holiday-suitable for us, we set about to walk to Ballstad
as we learned there might be a camping there and it seemed more remote than
Leknes. So off we went on a 8km hike in wind and rain. After a mere 2km we were
passing over a bridge of some sort when a car pulled up beside us. As we were
expecting to get a remark along the lines of that we should not be walking
alongside the road we were quite taken aback by the question: "where are
you guys going?".
"Well, eh, to
Ballstad"
"This is no weather for
walking; Hop in"
2 surprised faces exchanged
looks for 2 seconds and off we went, bags in the trunk and us in the car. The
sweet lady, somewhere in her 50's I guess, was actually going to another nearby
town, but was happy to take us the last 10km (yes the 8km hike was actually
longer as originally indicated) and tell us a bit about the area. She told us
that as a local she could confirm that the weather was mostly like it was that
day: rainy and chilly. However when the sun does come out it is all so
beautiful that it makes the people forget all the rainy days.
long story short: we
arrived in Ballstad where we followed some signs pointing to 'Solsiden Brygge'
(Sunside bridge). This could have been no better telltale for what we were
about to find: a place exuding warmth, a bit of a funky, surfers, atmosphere
with an adjacent restaurant which is a local meeting point for people wanting
to catch up: coming in from a wet and cold bike ride or fishing trip and people
just wanting some good food. The fish soup and the cake-buffet alone were
worthwhile!
We ended up staying 2 days
there: one in a small Rorbu next to the restaurant, the next day we moved to a
bigger one at the other side of town (which we got at the same price as the
first, smaller, one as there were no smaller ones available anymore).
Off course I had to be
introduced to fishing so Michiel arranged for us to go on a fishing trip. To my
big surprise (patience is not exactly my biggest asset…) Within 5 minutes, at
the point where I started to think that it was a boring activity indeed,
suddenly I pulled up 2 fish at once! Total catch of the day was 1 haddock and 8
(!) Pollock. Also note the fashionable life vests…
Moskenes, Værøy and car rental
Moskenes ain't exactly very exiting apart from the ferries that depart from here to various destinations and the Camping where we stayed for 3 nights. First was a day-trip to Værøy (one of the islands at the end of the Lofoten peninsula), which we will cover in a separate post.
Also, we did get our hands on a rental car for 2 days, which made discovering some remote parts a lot more easy while not getting completely soaked for a change. I seriously think this is one of the best rentals I ever had!!
 |
| Our fabulous rental- Nissan Almera- in Sund (museum in the background) |
Sund
Notable for the quiet location and the
Fiskeri-museum. A thumping one-cilinder diesel engine especially attracted the mechanical engineer of us two to have a look. The museum is a curious collection of old ship components: engines, wooden rowing boats, nets, radio's, etc. and a Blacksmith making artwork and giving demonstrations to the public.
Nusfjord
Another must-see! Quite remotely located, probably therefore well conserved old fisherman's village.
 |
| View towards Nusfjord from the road leading to the town |
Sakrisøy
Much more sunny and friendly than the touristic town of Reine is Sakrisøy. Connected to the rest of the land with a series of bridges too narrow for 2 cars to pass eachother. We stopped here to reserve a '
Rorbu' for our last night on the island and have a shrimp-sandwich at
Anita's Sjømat.
Note also the Mackerel I caught when we stayed there and ventured out in a small plastic boat. Michiel was merrily rowing the fisher-price-alike boat while I kept busy with pulling the fishing wire up and down. And guess what: at the point where I was about to give up suddenly the line started jittering! It was a king-size Mackerel. Needless to say that solved the "what are we going to eat tonight dilemma".
Henningsvær
Where it had been the plan to be here in the beginning for multiple days to go climbing, we were glad to have the car and to drive back north for a day to see Henningsvær after all.
Notable in the town are (amongst other things which you can surely read in any tourist guide) the absurd amount of coffee-bars.
 |
| "parking for men".... |
We had to constrain ourselves not to sit down for a coffee and a cake/waffle/muffin/other every 100 or so meters. We just settled for 2 different cafe's in the end....
Note: Only Nice Dogs allowed! ;-)
